泰美食系列 泰式紅與綠咖喱
今趟為《星島日報》和《東周刊》撰寫的新一輯專欄，給大家介紹一系列泰國菜的烹調方法。這些菜餚要花的工夫不少，假如沒有耐心嘗試，或者貪方便，以為切一切菜、拋一拋鑊就可一揮即就，那麼最好不要沾手。過去五年來一直追閱此欄的忠實讀者，想必一定躍躍欲試，渴望親手炮製難度高一點的菜式。首趟當然先教烹調泰國咖喱，要做得美味，必須對食材有深入了解，懂得如何搗碎、混和香料，才可達到均衡和諧的效果。務必謹記，只有將香草和香料逐層逐步磨成醬，才能完全帶出咖喱的味道，製造出令人垂涎欲滴的精采菜式。
多年前，我每年最少前往倫敦四次，探望在當地留學的兒子。當時亞洲經濟一片低迷，我總希望可以找到一些較廉宜的機票，而經泰國轉飛歐洲，票價十分吸引，因此我常常取道曼谷轉機往倫敦。美味的泰國菜很快便吸引了我。但起初我對泰國菜的感覺只是味道不錯罷了，但慢慢地，觀感卻徹底的改變。
泰國菜絕不是快速的即食文化，它要求廚師全面的專心，投入大量的時間，並加倍的努力，配以純熟的手藝以及豐富的經驗，才可以把泰國菜的精髓發揮得淋漓盡致。每一道泰國菜均由複雜的味道合成，真的令人花多眼亂，但又絕不粗糙，而是細緻及高雅的美食，簡直叫人讚歎不絕。
泰式紅咖喱 / Thai Red Curry
| 材料 | Ingredients |
| 長乾紅辣椒（去籽，浸軟及瀝乾）（可隨意加入指天椒3隻增加辣度）5隻 | Dried long red chilies, deseeded, soaked and drained（optional：3 bird's eye red chilies for extra heat） 5 |
| 南薑（切幼末）2茶匙 | Finely minced galangal 2tsp |
| 香茅（切幼絲）1湯匙 | Finely shredded lemongrass stem 1 tbsp |
| 青檸檬皮青（切碎）1/2湯匙 | Minced Kaffir lime zest 1/2 tbsp |
| 芫荽根（切碎）1湯匙 | Minced coriander root 1/2 tbsp |
| 紅花葱頭（切碎）1 1/2湯匙 | Minced red shallot 1 1/2 tbsp |
| 蒜蓉 1 1/2湯匙 | Minced garlic 1 1/2 tbsp |
| 芫荽籽 1/2茶匙 | Coriander seed 1/2 tsp |
| 小茴香籽 1/4茶匙 | Cumin seed 1/4 tsp |
| 蝦醬 1茶匙 | Shrimp paste 1 tsp |
| 白胡椒粒 3至4粒 | White peppercorns 3-4 |
| 鹽 1/4茶匙 | 1/4 tsp salt |
製法
1.紅辣椒乾切去梗，直切開辣椒莢，挖淨黏附的薄膜，放入冷水浸15分鐘，然後徹底擠乾水分。
Cut off the stems of the dried red chilies, slit open the pod and remove the seeds. Scrape clean the membrane attached to the seeds. Soak the deseeded chilies in cold water for 15 mins. Then squeeze the chilies very dry.
Cut off the stems of the dried red chilies, slit open the pod and remove the seeds. Scrape clean the membrane attached to the seeds. Soak the deseeded chilies in cold water for 15 mins. Then squeeze the chilies very dry.
2.辣椒切碎，然後放入研磨缽內，加1/4茶匙鹽，搗成泥醬。（鹽粒有助辣椒磨成醬）。
Cut chilies to fine and pound with 1/4 tsp salt in a mortar to a smooth paste.（The salt acts as an abrasive to help grind the chilies.）
Cut chilies to fine and pound with 1/4 tsp salt in a mortar to a smooth paste.（The salt acts as an abrasive to help grind the chilies.）
3.必須順次序逐一放入以下的材料，每放入一款材料，先搗碎並嗅到香氣，才放另一款；：南薑末2茶匙、香茅絲1湯匙、青檸皮青1/2湯匙、芫荽根碎1湯匙
Add the following ingredients in exact order, each added separately, pounded and sniffed（to check aroma）before the next ingredient is added：2 tsp finely minced galangal, 1 tbsp finely shredded lemongrass, 1/2 tbsp minced Kaffir lime zest, 1 tbsp minced coriander root.
Add the following ingredients in exact order, each added separately, pounded and sniffed（to check aroma）before the next ingredient is added：2 tsp finely minced galangal, 1 tbsp finely shredded lemongrass, 1/2 tbsp minced Kaffir lime zest, 1 tbsp minced coriander root.
4.再放入紅葱頭和蒜蓉，搗碎並混和成為咖喱醬。然後加入烘香的蝦醬，搗碎並拌勻。
Now add the minced shallots and garlic; pound to incorporate into the curry paste. Then add the roasted dry shrimp paste and pound to incorporate.
Now add the minced shallots and garlic; pound to incorporate into the curry paste. Then add the roasted dry shrimp paste and pound to incorporate.
5.最後將磨碎的香料粉：芫荽籽、小茴香籽及白胡椒粒加入咖喱醬內，徹底拌勻。做好的咖喱醬帶有層次豐富、甘醇而圓渾的氣味，放進雪櫃內可保存長達兩星期。
Mix the ground spice powder：coriander seed, cumin seed and white peppercorns throughly into the curry paste. The finished paste should have a complete, uniform and rounded smell. The curry paste can be kept for up to two weeks in the refrigerator.
Mix the ground spice powder：coriander seed, cumin seed and white peppercorns throughly into the curry paste. The finished paste should have a complete, uniform and rounded smell. The curry paste can be kept for up to two weeks in the refrigerator.
綠咖喱醬 / Green Curry Paste
| 材料 | Ingredients |
| 綠色小辣椒 15至17隻 | Green bird's eye chilies 15-17 |
| 南薑（切碎）1/2湯匙 | Chopped galangal 1/2 tbsp |
| 香茅（除去外衣、底和頂部，切幼絲） 1湯匙 | Lemongrass stems, outer coarse sheaths, base and top peeled off, then finely shredded 1 tbsp |
| 青檸檬皮青（切碎） 1/2湯匙 | Finely minced Kaffir lime zest 1/2 tbsp |
| 芫荽根（切碎） 1湯匙 | Coriander root, finely minced 1 tbsp |
| 紅葱頭（切碎） 1 1/2湯匙 | Minced red shallot 1 1/2 tbsp |
| 蒜蓉 1湯匙 | Minced garlic 1 tbsp |
| 九層塔葉（即紫梗，可令咖喱變成青綠色） 10片 | Sweet basil leaves, for green colouring 10 |
| 蝦醬（烘香） 1/2茶匙 | Roasted shrimp paste 1/2 tsp |
| 白胡椒粒 5粒 | White peppercorns 5 |
| 小茴香籽（烘香） 1茶匙 | Roasted cumin seeds 1 tsp |
| 芫荽籽（烘香） 1/2茶匙 | Roasted coriander seeds 1/2 tsp |
| 鹽 1茶匙 | Salt 1 tsp |
製法
1.綠色小辣椒切去梗，直切開辣椒莢，除籽，挖淨黏附的薄膜，切碎。然後放入研磨缽內，加1茶匙鹽，搗成泥醬。
Cut off the stems of the green bird's eye chilies, slit open the pod and remove the seeds. Scrape clean the membrane attached to the seeds. Chop green chilies to very fine, then pound to a smooth paste in a mortar with 1 tsp salt.
Cut off the stems of the green bird's eye chilies, slit open the pod and remove the seeds. Scrape clean the membrane attached to the seeds. Chop green chilies to very fine, then pound to a smooth paste in a mortar with 1 tsp salt.
2.順次序逐一放入以下材料，每放入一款材料，先搗碎並嗅到香氣，才放下一款：南薑蓉1/2湯匙、香茅絲1湯匙、青檸檬皮青1/2湯匙、芫荽根1湯匙。
Add the following ingredients in exact order, each added separately, pounded and sniffed（to check aroma）before the next ingredient is added：1/2 tbsp chopped galangal, 1 tbsp finely shredded lemongrass, 1/2 tbsp finely minced Karrir lime zest, 1 tbsp finely minced coriander root.
Add the following ingredients in exact order, each added separately, pounded and sniffed（to check aroma）before the next ingredient is added：1/2 tbsp chopped galangal, 1 tbsp finely shredded lemongrass, 1/2 tbsp finely minced Karrir lime zest, 1 tbsp finely minced coriander root.
3.再放入紅葱頭和蒜蓉，搗碎並混和成為咖喱醬。
Now add the minced shallot and garlic; pound to incorporate into the curry paste.
Now add the minced shallot and garlic; pound to incorporate into the curry paste.
4.加入烘香的蝦醬，搗碎並拌勻。將小茴香及芫荽籽烘香，連同5粒白胡椒磨成粉，加入咖喱醬內完全拌勻。
Add the roasted shrimp paste and pound to mix. Grind the roasted cumin and coriander seeds and the 5 white peppercorns to a powder. Add to the curry paste and mix well.
Add the roasted shrimp paste and pound to mix. Grind the roasted cumin and coriander seeds and the 5 white peppercorns to a powder. Add to the curry paste and mix well.
5.研碎九層塔葉，加進咖喱醬內，搗勻。青咖喱醬即告完成，放進雪櫃內可保存長達兩星期。
Finely mince the sweet basil leaves; add to the curry paste and pound to mix. The green curry paste is now ready and can be kept for up to two weeks in the refrigerator.
Finely mince the sweet basil leaves; add to the curry paste and pound to mix. The green curry paste is now ready and can be kept for up to two weeks in the refrigerator.
基本材料 / Basic ingredients
烘烤蝦醬Dry-frying Shrimp Paste
1.從容器中舀出所需份量的蝦醬，抹在一片蕉葉上。
Scoop out the required amount of shrimp paste from the container, and lay this out on a banana leaf.
Scoop out the required amount of shrimp paste from the container, and lay this out on a banana leaf.
2.壓平蝦醬，並以蕉葉包好。
Flatten the shrimp paste and cover with banana leaf.
Flatten the shrimp paste and cover with banana leaf.
3.放在煎鍋上慢慢烤香。
Dry-fry this is a frying pan slowly until aromatic.
Dry-fry this is a frying pan slowly until aromatic.
烘烤芫荽和小茴香籽 Dry Roasting the Coriander and Cumin
1.芫荽和小茴香籽的烘烤時間不一，所以必須用小煎鍋分別烘烤。小茴香籽很易烘乾，以中小火把香料烘香，放涼。
The coriander and cumin must be dry roasted separately in a small frying pan as they take different times to roast. Cumin seeds roast very quickly. Over a medium-low heat, dry-raost the spices until fragrant. Allow the roasted spices to cool.
The coriander and cumin must be dry roasted separately in a small frying pan as they take different times to roast. Cumin seeds roast very quickly. Over a medium-low heat, dry-raost the spices until fragrant. Allow the roasted spices to cool.
2.不可烘烤白胡椒粒，將芫荽、小茴香籽和白胡椒粒磨成粉。
White peppercorns cannot be roasted. Grind the cumin, coriander seeds and white peppercorns into a powder.
White peppercorns cannot be roasted. Grind the cumin, coriander seeds and white peppercorns into a powder.
處理香茅 Prepare the Lemongrass
1.必須除去粗糙外衣、厚硬的底和根部，頂部綠色部分的三分之一也要切掉。
The outer coarse sheaths, tough base and roots must be removed. The top third of the green part also needs to be cut off.
The outer coarse sheaths, tough base and roots must be removed. The top third of the green part also needs to be cut off.
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